I’ve already told you where to stay, so now you’re no doubt wondering where to eat in the Langhe? Well, you’ve come to the right place. If there’s one thing you can guarantee in the Barolo and Barbaresco area, it’s great food. After all, this is the home of Slow Food we’re talking about… The only difficult thing is deciding which of the hundreds of amazing restaurants to visit.
In an attempt to make your life easier, here are a few of my favourite spots. I only want to write about my own experiences, so this list is a constant work in progress, growing – a little too slowly for my liking – over time. I won’t tell you about the famous places, such as Trattoria della Posta and Piazza Duomo, firstly because I can’t afford to eat there, and secondly because you can find out everything you need to know about those places elsewhere. My job, as I see it, is to send you towards some perhaps lesser-known gems, so that you know where to eat in the Langhe!
Novello
ANT – This place is not your typical Langhe restaurant, but if you’re a foodie it’s a must visit! Set in a beautiful underground cantina in Novello, your night starts when Tiziano takes you into the cellar to choose some wine (there is no list…). And then the real fun starts, as beautifully-presented dish after beautifully-presented dish is brought out. Don’t expect Agnolotti and Brasata al Barolo though… these guys take their inspirations from far and wide and serve parts of animals that I didn’t even know you could eat. From the moment you walk in, it’s a totally unique experience and one you will never forget. Via Ferrero 8, Novello. +39 348 5467902 Open for dinner from Thursday to Sunday. website
Photo: ANT
L’Angolo di Rosina – Wonderfully-prepared, seasonal food, often with an interesting twist on the classic, local dishes. The wine list is very local, very expansive and very reasonably-priced. Tucked away not far from the church in Novello it’s not on everyone’s radar, but it is well worth a visit. Piazza Caduti 5, Novello, +39 0173 509113, closed on Monday evening and all day Tuesday. Website
Casa Barbabuc – A restaurant in a hotel that has changed hands numerous times over the years may not sound particularly promising, but bear with me… Recently taken over by a small group of Novellese, Barbabuc has a new lease of life and is now going from strength to strength. The restaurant serves simple, Piemontese dishes done well. It is everything the food in the Langhe is supposed to be. The prices are remarkable too. And what’s more, the wine list is almost entirely from Novello. Via Giordano 35, Novello, +39 0173 731298, closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and Sunday evenings. Website
La Morra
Locanda Fontanazza – An ever-changing menu of seasonal Piemontese dishes, both traditional and more modern in a relaxed atmosphere. Eating here is always great, but especially so at lunchtime when you can sit outside on the terrace and admire the view. This is one of the places we go back to time and time again, and with very good reason! The menu is always changing, the wine list is amazing and Mattia and his staff always look after you really well. Strada Fontanazza 4, La Morra, +39 0173 50718, closed Monday lunchtime and all day Thursday. Website
Photo: Locanda Fontanazza
L’Osteria del Vignaiolo – Down the hill from La Morra, in Frazione Santa Maria. Seasonal, local food made from top quality ingredients, a wonderful outside area, perfect service and a menu that changes regularly but always contains a few interesting dishes. Outsanding quality food at extremely reasonable prices. This place is always a favourite among our guests, and with good reason. Don’t miss it! Frazione Santa Maria 12, La Morra, +39 017350335. Closed all day Wednesday and Thursday.
Osteria More e Macine – Popular with the local winemakers, this place is right in the middle of La Morra. With good food, a great wine list and a kitchen which is always open, it is a great option at any time of day or night! Via XX Settembre, 18, La Morra. +39 0173500395
Osteria Veglio – Our guests always rave about Veglio, and it’s easy to see why. Set in Annunzuata, just a few minutes outside of La Morra, It has a beautiful terrace, the food is great quality and very local, and the wine list is perfect. Frazione Annunziata, 9, La Morra. +39 0173 509341. Closed Sunday and Monday. Website
Photo: Osteria Veglio
Verduno
Agnulot – A tiny but beautiful place in Verduno’s old school building, Agnulot opened in early 2018 and has been earning rave reviews ever since. Run by two young women who take your order and then prepare your food in front of you in the open kitchen, it has a really convivial atmosphere. Dining here feels like an event, you really feel like you are experiencing something special. And you are. And what’s more, the food is out of this world! The menu changes every week so check out their facebook page for the latest. For a full review, check out our blog at Living in the Langhe. Via Pasquale 4, Verduno. +39 333 999 9601, closed on Wednesdays. Website
La Cantina – Tucked away between La Morra and Verduno, La Cantina is one of our current favourite places to go and is always a big hit with our guests. It’s a lovely, welcoming place with exceptionally good food, a great, varied wine list and friendly service. I genuinely can’t recommed it highly enough. Frazione Rivalta, 28, Verduno. +39 338 465 4581. Closed on Thursdays. Website
Alba
Osteria del Arco – Tucked away in a courtyard off Piazza Michele Fererro, Osteria del’Arco is run by the same people as Osteria Bocondivino in Bra. That’s the Slow Food restaurant, so you are guaranteed wonderful food. Couple that with a beautiful setting, friendly service and good prices and Osteria dell’Arco is one of the best places to eat in Alba. Piazza Michele Fererro, 5, Alba +39 0173 363974. Website
Photo: Osteria dell’Arco
Caffe Umberto – On Piazza Michele Ferrere (formerly Piazza Savona), this is a modern-looking place with a really creative menu and a great wine list. Equally good for lunch or dinner. They offer many of the traditional local dishes, but also have a few more creative dishes, and even do a really good burger! Piazza Michele Ferrero 4, Alba. +39 0173 33994. Website
Serralunga d’Alba
Vinoteca Centro Storico – A great little place in the heart of Serralunga. Really good local food and an incredible wine list make this the perfect lunch stop. Via Roma, 6, Serralunga d’Alba. +39 0173612603
Monforte d’Alba
Le Case della Saracca – Aperitivi. If you come here, that’s what you want. The restaurant’s good too, and it’s a great place both to see and to dine, with all the tables tucked into alcoves of a renovated medieval building. But the aperitivi are incredible. Buy yourself a Spritz or some wine from the ridiculously good wine list or from the clever dispensing machine and get stuck in. Via Cavour 5, Monforte d’Alba, +39 0173 789222. Website
Photo: Le Case della Saracca
Osteria La Salita – Tucked away down a little alleyway, La Salita offers good quality, local fare in a relaxing, peaceful setting. The menu is fairly classic and the courtyard is a great spot for a long summer’s lunch. Via Marconi, 2A, Monforte d’Alba, +39 0173 787196, closed on Tuesdays. Website
Barolo
La Cantinetta – Not to be confused with La Cantinella, just down the road. This a local’s favourite with a reputation for top quality, local food at reasonable prices. The wine list, as you would expect, is impressive and the service is warm and efficient. You really can’t go wrong! Via Roma 33, Barolo, +39 0173 56198, closed Wednesday evening and all day Thursday
Castiglione Faletto
Le Torri – This is a hotel restaurant… a hotel restaurant that proves that not all hotel restaurants are to be avoided! Fantastic local food, impeccable service, a lovely terrace and very reasonable prices add up to a place that really should be on any list of places to eat in the Langhe. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 10, +39 017362937 www.ristoranteletorri.it
Photo: Le Torri
Cherasco
Osteria della Torre – In the centre of Cherasco, the Italian home of snails, this is a truly remarkable restaurant. You can, of course, get snails here, but they do much more than that. They often put a creative, modern twist on some of the traditional local dishes. Guests always put it in the top three restaurants of their trip. Via Ospedale 22, Cherasco, 12062, +39 0172 488458. Website
Photo: Osteria delle Torre
Barbaresco Area
Degusto – In Neive old town, Degusto describes itself as an ‘Enoteca con cucina’, but it’s much more than that. Yes the wine list is remarkable, but so is the food. There is a five course set menu for 25 Euros that will blow you away. Or sit outside on the terrace and order course after course of freshly cut meats and cheeses and local pastas. A wonderful place to while away a sunny afternoon. Via Cocito, 2, Neive, +39 0173362562, Closed on Tuesdays. Website
Campamac – In the heart of Barbaresco, Campamac feels like a 1920s New York steak house… The decor is amazing, but the food is even better. Incredible steaks, great interpretations of local dishes and, of course, and mind-blowing wine list. Strada Giro della Valle, 1, Barbaresco, +39 0173635051
Photo: Campamac
Alta Langa
Trattoria da Lele – For me, this place is the personification (restaurantification!?) of the entire Alta Langa. Simple, comfortable, great quality, good value and just somewhere I enjoy spending time. They don’t have a menu, they just bring you whatever antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci they have on. Go hungry and I guarantee you will leave happy! Piazza Cerrina, 21, Murazzano, +39 0173798016 Closed on Thursdays, open for lunch and dinner Friday, Saturday and Sunday, open only for lunch Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday.
Photo: Trattoria da Lele